William Bess: Memphis Beauty Pioneer
- Veronica Carr
- Aug 11
- 2 min read
In the words of the late great #GodfatherofSoul #JamesBrown, "Sometimes you let the hair do the talking."
Well, William Bess and the hairstyles created through his Besso System of Beauty
Culture sure did some talking. Whether you wanted it crimped, curled, fried, dyed, or laid to the side, Besso was the place to go in Memphis, Tennessee for beauty culture in the 1920s. #HistoricBlackHairCare
In an industry that was largely dominated by Black women, such as #AnnieTurnboMalone, #MadamCJWalker, and #MadameSaraSpencerWashington, Bess was one of the few documented Black men who created their own beauty system, complete with a manufacturing company and training school. Some might be familiar with #AnthonyOverton, of Chicago, who established his business in the late 1890s. The hair care industry not only kept Black women looking stylish, but also provided an avenue of employment for many. Some either worked in beauty salons or in some cases, opened their own salons or beauty schools.
Nanny Jack & Co Archives acquired the Besso Collection in 2004 for $127.50. Taking into account inflation, that is equivalent to $217.17 in 2025.
There’s not much known about the success of Bess’ beauty school and company, but there’s a little info available on Bess’ life. He was born circa 1891 in Natchez, Mississippi. According to his World War I Draft Registration card, he lived at 358 Beale Avenue in Memphis, TN. He also lived at 659 Walker Avenue. Both addresses are listed on his Besso Manufacturing Company envelopes.
The Besso System collection with the Nanny Jack & Co Archives contains photographs, correspondence, postcards, newspaper clippings, and other materials. There are also photographs taken by the famous #HooksBrothers of Memphis, a perfect example of one Black business supporting another. Due to the vastness of the collection, many photographs within the collection remain unidentified. In 2011, the prototype, with original photographs of hairstyles, of the Besso System of Beauty Culture sold at auction for over $11,000. The red book below is a result of that prototype.
Courtesy of Nanny Jack & Co Archives
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